Torquay to Warrnambool

Explore the Great Ocean Road#, for some of the most diverse and spectacular coastal scenery in Australia.  Experience the lush green forests of Cape Otway and Otway National Park where dense native forests of eucalypts, palms and waterfalls provide a cool escape from the coast.  Onto the 12 Apostles which provide an amazing entrance to the start of the rugged, seriously eroded shipwreck coast where huge rock promontories, arches, bridges and grottos stand as enormous rock sculptures forever battling against the pounding seas.

The journey follows the coast starting from the famous surf beach at Bells, through the quaint seaside towns of Lorne and Apollo Bay then inland through wonderful forest tracks and trails.  You can’t fail to see a koala (they love these particular gum trees) and up at Forrest there’s an opportunity to see platypus in the wild.  Travel back to the coast on a loop road through the forest and detour to the national park at Cape Otway.  Back on the Great Ocean Road to explore, experience and photograph (a must) the Port Campbell National Park, Bay of Islands Coastal Park, 12 Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge, The Grotto, Bay of Martyrs, Bay of Islands.  Stop at every lookout, stroll every boardwalk, even swim at one of two of the beaches – you won’t want to leave this area.

#“one of the world’s best drives”

 The road and time required

 Total distance for the itinerary is 430km.  The road from Kennett River is gravel, a bit rough and washed out, especially at the start and is not suitable for caravans (an alternative is to proceed to Skenes Creek (a further 17km) and turn right on the Skenes Creek Road to Forrest).  Most other vehicles should be OK with care, but check conditions, especially if there has been rain.  Allow 4-5 days for the itinerary.

 GEMS (T) and PIT (J) Stops

J        Bells Beach ?

Watch, with amazement and trepidation, as the diagonal waves race towards the shore.  And there, riding the crest are bodies in black – like a lot of busy ants but balanced on their boards. Look how the surfers weave backwards and forwards over the top of the waves.  

 J        Pt Roadknight �

Visit at low tide.  Walk along the beach and over there by the point discover where wonderful rock pools, rock gardens really are exposed.  Look at how the seaweed and shells are designed, almost deliberately in the gullies.  Get close to the cliffs and carefully touch the sharp craggy rocks, pitted with age, that balance precariously to form sculptures and razor sharp ledges.

 T         Otway National Park/State Park?

Drive through the forests.  Dense cool temperate rainforest where eucalypts tower to the sky and ferns compete for space on the forest floor.  From time to time the trees form avenues where the sun’s rays can only just reach the road to dance ahead of the car.  There are waterfalls to explore, bush tracks to get a quiet and intimate encounter with the bush and picnic tables and camp grounds all inviting you to stay longer.

 T         Paddle with the Platypus – Forrest �

Watch the mist slowly rise off the lake, just like the steam from a gently boiling kettle.  The dead tree trunks are silhouetted against the dark green bush and look how the sun and shadows create reflections through and under the water.  Glide slowly, very quietly.  Staring first to the left and then to the right, then “look, one o’clock” - a small elongated shape, almost silvery in the early morning mist with a slight trail of bubbles behind, shyly peeps out of the water.  Like a miniature crocodile, he sits on top of the water, breathes and eats for a minute and then duck dives back to safety.

 J        Birregurra Farm Foods �

Step inside this quaint little cottage.  Primarily a butcher, a “real” butcher displaying various cuts of steaks, lamb back-straps (very difficult to get hold of), fresh chickens, free range eggs to name just a few of these tempting farm foods.  Also a deli with a huge range of gourmet items, including French cheese, unique sauces, cordials, wines and fresh vegetables.

 T         Botanic Gardens Café – Colac z

Sit on the terrace of the café and catch glimpses of the lake through the old fir trees.  But first of all, drive through the Botanic Gardens, from the gate diagonally across from the café.  Continue past the stately line of old English oak trees to complete the pristine but lush circle of trees, shrubs, grasses and flowerbeds.

 J        Otway Fly Tree Top Walk {

Wander down into the forest where magnificent stands of trees surround you.  Climb higher and higher along the metal walkway – don’t look down, the ground is getting further away between your feet.  Here at the top, experience a different perspective of the forest canopy, it’s more about the tree trunks and the varying shades of bark.  As a finale, climb a spiral tower to the giddy heights of 47m, which puts you at the treetops, with commanding views of the surrounding forest.  If the return journey seems a bit too strenuous catch a lift back to the top (in the courtesy golf buggy)

 T         Maits Rest |

Feel the coolness as you step into this magical rainforest walk.  Wander, stop and watch the sun dancing on the dappled barks or the rays escaping through the fern glades.  Spot the lichen, almost like spiders webs that create a fairyland of gossamer and now look up at the gigantic myrtle beech that stand side by side skinny eucalypts.  Further into the walk discover gigantic fallen trees, now almost lost in a garden of moss, lichen, tree ferns and kangaroo fern.

 T         Cape Otway }

Drive down the avenue of eucalypts that create a grand entrance to the “Cape”.  Beautiful trees where bark hangs precariously from the trunk and the smooth white branches wave around in the breeze almost as if they are alive.  Look up towards the top of the Manna Gum trees and you will almost always see a koala nestled in the “v” of the branches.  Tour down to the point and then follow the flat rocky yet wild coastline.

Ø     Camp at Bimbi Park or Blanket Bay for a close encounter with the koalas

Ø     Visit the fascinating Telegraph Station and just imagine the challenges of laying a submarine cable to Tasmania in the 1800s

Ø     Climb to the top of the lighthouse and visit the old bunker from WW1 for magnificent views and an insight into a fascinating past

Ø     Explore the rock pools (like rock gardens) and caves at Blanket Bay or even go for a swim

Ø     With a 4WD, discover the wild and stunning scenic beach at Crayfish Bay and swim in the inlet below the headland at Parker Hill

 T         Port Campbell National Park, Bay of Islands Coastal Park, 12 Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge, The Grotto, Bay of Martyrs, Bay of Islands ~

Magic, a must see.  Stop at every lookout.  These giants rise out of the sea, sort of majestically but also with some trepidation.  Bluffs, pinnacles, raw outcrops of rock.  All sorts of weird and wonderful shapes and sizes.  At each stop, explore all the walks and lookouts, each one providing a slightly different perspective and each one building on this wonderful intimate experience with nature.

 The Journey

Start at the roundabout at the end of the Surf Coast Highway in Torquay, the beginning of the Great Ocean Road (GOR) and head towards Lorne and Warrnambool.  Travel 3km and turn left for a further 3.5 km following the signs to Bells Beach ?.  Definitely worth getting out of the car and heading down to the viewing platform for commanding views of the coastline, excellent waves and around 40 board riders challenging the waves.  Continue on this road for 4km and turn left onto GOR.  Pass through Anglesea, where GOR meets the ocean and turn left after 9.5km to Pt Roadnight Beach �, a must to walk out to the south east point at low tide.  

Return to GOR and turn left.  The coastline from Anglesea to Kennett River follows the coast and winds its way up and down and around many headlands (take care through the sharp bends).  There are view spots and lookouts all along this section, most with spectacular views both back and forward along the coast.  Even on a calm day, the waves create foam and spray as they crash against the mainly rocky coastline, great for photographs.  After 14km the Memorial Arch is worth a stop and describes the history of GOR, which commemorates the Victorian servicemen from WW1.  This is the third Arch built, the previous being burnt in the Ash Wednesday fires in 1990.  On your way through Lorne, stock up with goodies at Lorne Greens (fruit and veg and deli items) just after the Erskine River Bridge on the right. 

After 33km, turn right at the Caravan Park at Kennett River and almost immediately left into Grey River Road.  This loop through the Angahook-Lorne State Park and the Otway State Forest ?, explores the magnificent hinterland and forest reserves behind GOR with commanding valley and coastal views.  The gravel track starts off a bit rough (check conditions after rain) and there are loads of Koalas as you start to climb the hill.  The drive should be fine for most vehicles (except caravans) if you take care.  The initial terrain is dry eucalypt forest, then after 6km there is the Grey River picnic area with beautiful ferns.  The forest becomes thicker and more moist as you climb, still retaining the ferns and eucalypts.  A further 10.5 km and a T intersection turn right on the Benwerrin-Mt Sabine Road, where the forest is considerably dryer.  After a further 8km turn left signposted Forrest on the Kaanglang Road (and look out for the dark brown swamp wallabies and rosellas). Turn left after 12km on Route 22 and at the T intersection of Station Street, turn right then left to the main road (Birregurra-Forrest Road) in the centre of Forrest at the General Store.

We chose the dawn Paddle with the Platypus � tour, leaving outside the General Store (at 5.30am-yuk!).  The tour is at Lake Elizabeth (7km out of Forrest) and finished around 9.15am. 

From Forrest, head north to Birregurra, through mainly farmland and turn left after 23km at the T intersection.  Stop off at the Farm Foods � store for lots of goodies.  It’s also worth getting the pamphlet for the Birregurra Heritage Walk (from the Newsagent) – we drove – some interesting architecture in the churches, railway station and butter factory.  From the centre of Birregurra, continue north and turn left after 6km on the A1 and it’s a further 12km to Colac.  Turn right to the Colac Botanic Gardens, a drive through gardens and café overlooking the lake z.

Return to the A1 and turn right into the town before turning left after 1km on the C155 to Apollo Bay.  Head south and the terrain becomes more and more forest, some natural and some new growth forests (and lots of logging trucks heading back to several sawmills found in Colac).  After 38km, turn left to Beach Forest and almost immediately right to the Otway Fly Treetop Walk { a further 4km on the right.

Next, head back the 4km towards Beach Forest and turn right.  Then in another 4.5km, turn right on the Aire Valley Road towards Hopetoun Falls (keep right after 600m).  The road becomes Binns Road and is a wide gravel road (in good condition when we passed).  The road meanders up and down, left and right through the beautiful Otway State Forest before turning right after 20km on GOR.  After 3km stop for a wonderful short walk at Maits Rest |.  Carry on a further 4km and turn left towards the Cape Otway } and the Lighthouse.  After 9km (hidden around a sharp left hand corner with no advance warning) there is a turning left to Blanket Bay, Crayfish Bay and Parker Hill.  Carry on a further 3km to the lighthouse with wonderful coastal views. 

Return to GOR, turn left and it’s definitely worth a stop after 12km at the Castle Cove lookout.  A further 14km, turn left at Lavers Hill and continue on GOR.  When you start to descend back to the coast, keep a lookout for special views of the surrounding valley, straight ahead and to the right – quite breathtaking.  After 15km, take a small 4km each way detour (not suitable for caravans) to Moonlight Head with a walk to The Gable for some of the best rugged coastal views I have ever seen and from one of the highest cliffs at 130m.  A further 17km takes you to Princetown which is worth turning left to the top of the hill and General Store for views out to where the Gellibrand River meets the ocean.

This is the start of the Port Campbell NP and the Bay of Islands Coastal Park ~ and the magic continues.  Take time to view everything in the 18km between Princetown and Port Campbell.  There’s no other word other than “spectacular”.  It is 67km to Warrnambool from Port Campbell, but the first 20km is special, with The Arch, London Bridge, The Grotto, Bay of Martyrs and the Bay of Islands (none of which should be missed).  While in Warrnambool, take a visit to the Logans Beach Whale Nursery (only 4km from the centre) for whale viewing during May to October.